It was through the fine lines of a light drizzling on the glass windows on a late June, sunny evening that I got my first glimpses of the English Capital. The view was from a Taxi on our way to Kings Cross from the Heathrow Airport. We had made Reservations at a Bed and Breakfast accommodation on the road opposite the Kings Cross underground station wanting to stay at the city centre. It was love at first sight for me and the beginning of my summer time affair with the picture perfect English and Scottish lands.
The Black Taxi weaved its way through the thick office hour London Traffic. On route the Indian Driver cheerfully pointed out various places after learning we were here on vacation and knowing it was going to be a long drive ahead. Through the transparent divide between us, it was not an easy task. His accent matching ours made it easier. My eyes remained glued to the view outside. The baskets of multi colored, pretty, fresh flowers hanging above tall poles of the sidewalk edges, had the strongest appeal like the eyes of the one you are attracted to.
As we walked through the reception area of the hotel and into our rooms we were in for a big surprise. The rooms looked much bigger on the internet than what we were now viewing. I liked the cozy, clean look of the place with its summery wall paper and all facilities as promised on the net. My mother however could not hold her disappointment and said “we can barely move how we can live here?” “You have not come to live here Ma and we will barely spend the night when you will be up on the bed. There will not be much need to move around” I replied laughing. “We prefer to spend money on visiting all the tourist attractions and on good food and travel and this place is hardly cheap being centrally located in London” my sister added.
After settling in and a change of clothes we walked over to the Kings Cross underground station across the road. I tried to stop for a minute but was unable to. The crowd pushed me along and down the escalator. Everyone stood to the right by the railing while those in a bigger hurry rushed past the left side. I looked around thinking that everyone was rushing to a party below. Everyone was dressed in gorgeous attire – women were beautifully dressed and their bags, shoes and accessories perfectly co-coordinated with their clothes which ranged from the lowest of necklines to the highest of skirt and dress hemlines and the thinnest of shoulder straps to none at all. The cold wind blowing outside was no deterrent. Men were in smart casuals.
As I stepped into the train I could not help being glad I had not paid heed to husbands “Don’t take so many clothes and accessories – who is going to look at you there” thereby packing light. It does not matter whether any one looks at you; if you are not well dressed in London you could feel pretty lousy and awkward. But then again it is the way you perceive things. As for me when in Rome I like to do as the Romans do. We obviously did not get seats but admiring people, our stop Piccadilly Circus came very soon. As we tried to get off we realized that nearly everyone else was getting off with us. Once again we could not stop walking as the crowd prevented us from stopping.
Stepping out into the sunlit 9 pm cool evening I realized that the whole of London was partying and as we walked down the road people with their drink glasses were all over the pavements, spilling out of the series of pubs lined on both sides of the road. It was a Summer Saturday Evening and I was thrilled at the sight of the biggest party I had ever been to. We walked on all the way to Leicester Square and in spite of the barely clothed women around I was glad that I had dressed warm in addition to well. The wind was biting cold. We chose a table at a Café. A popular Cafe chain Bella Italia in the centre of Leicester square. I just could not take my eyes and ears away from all the revelry outside. It was like the venue of a gala event with stalls around where you could pick your glass and mingle with everyone.
Though I would have loved to start my first meal with the traditional English Fish and Chips I decided that I would savor it over lunch the next day. I would then not feel guilty about the entire fried carbohydrate intake at night. I settled for a smoked fish dish with plenty of salad and washed it down with a good measure of wine. On the bus ride back, I ran up the stairs to the top deck. London by night was a magnificent sight. It was past twelve and the sun and the underground trains were no longer visible.
The next day waking late we missed breakfast at the hotel. Picking up a bowl of fruit salad and green tea each with our sandwiches from the chain Prêt A Manger we took the train ride to Water Loo station and crossed the road to the London Eye. Perfectly named for we certainly got an eyeful of London from the glass capsules. As we rose high up we could also view the huge crowds and queues we crossed to get up there on a summer Sunday afternoon. After a big Oriental buffet meal just adjacent, we walked over to Big Ben keeping the grand Thames in sight to our right as we did.
After the post lunch walk we settled down comfortably on the well mowed lawns over looking West Minister Abbey to catch our breath but more to just get a feel of the place. The evening after a change and a little rest leaving mother to call it a day we headed to Oxford Street by the near empty Sunday afternoon tube. Picking up a Coffee each after Apple & Cinnamon Tarts and Low Fat Carrot & Valencia Orange Cakes at Star Bucks opposite to the "Next" showroom we walked the length of Oxford Street on both sides.
We looked through the dressed windows and the visual merchandising with over 50% discount sale on all the major brands like Zara, French Connection, Benetton, Mother Care and Kipling. It certainly was a treat for the eye in addition to catching glimpses of my first point of attraction the flower baskets hanging on the side walks. I have to thank my lucky stars that all the shops were closed as it was about 7 Pm. All shops close by 5.30 Pm. I was saved from ransacking my funds and blocking my credit card limits out. It’s difficult to resist the “Sale” signages.
Of course we just could not get back on the tube without a walk through Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square again. Sadly the places were desolate as in this case every evening is not a Saturday evening and we headed back to Kings Cross to dine at the Flavors of India restaurant. The way the dishes were spelt “ Motor Poneer”and the Bengali dialect the staff spoke we knew instantly it was run by Bangladeshi’s as are most of the Indian Restaurants in the UK. We found them in every small town in the days to come. The food though somewhat bland is a relief to those vegetarian - who cannot sleep well without their Dal & Roti and to others who need the smell of Indian spices to feel human. Though I don’t fall in either group and love continental food as much as I do Indian cuisine I joined the others in the group.
On Monday morning when we went down to the underground station the formal attire, business suits and attitude of the crowds rushing past was a contrast to the weekend party mood. I watched in awe at the people who work as hard as they play. We took the tube to Victoria Station and bought ourselves Hop on Hop Off bus passes for sight seeing through the day. As the name suggests one can actually board or get on and off at any place one chooses to. The top deck of these buses was open giving a good view and feel of the place through all ones senses. They also give you the time and space to see everything at your own pace.
We started with the Change of Guards drill at the Buckingham Palace. Followed by a meeting and photography sessions with Audrey Hepburn, Lady Diana, Amitabh Bacchan, Indira Gandhi, Sharukh and Salman Khan. It was with their Wax statues at Madame Tussand’s museum. Aishwariya Rai’s statue did not match up to her beauty and neither did Sharukh’s his looks on screen. In spite of it being wax I thoroughly enjoyed posing for pictures with most of them as they come alive in the photographs. I finally had Fish & Chips at the Café in front of Madame Tussand’s for lunch. It was one of the best I’ve had. The fish and crust were baked to perfection and just melted in my mouth.
We got onto our bus and from the top deck with the cold wind blowing our hair while the sun kept us cozy we passed Downing Street with a couple of minutes at No. 10 and went on the rest of the route listening to the audio guide through ear phones plugged to our seats. We passed Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly Circus, Oxford Street and finally got off for the Thames Cruise calling at Westminster Pier Victoria embarkment opposite the Big Ben. On the half hour cruise to the London Towers we went under the London Bridge which was a magnificent sight. On the cruise one can also see other things of interest on the banks of the Thames one such being Shakespear’s Globe Theatre.
The London Tower which is Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress is a historic monument on the north bank of the River Thames. The tower’s primary function was a fortress, a royal palace, and a prison (particularly for high status and royal prisoners, such as the Princes in the Tower and the future Queen Elizabeth I). This last use has led to the phrase "sent to the Tower" (meaning "imprisoned"). It has also served as a place of execution and torture, an armoury, a treasury, a zoo, the Royal Mint, a public records office, an observatory, and since 1303, the home of the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom. After Tea and Blackcurrant Muffins at the Tower café followed by an hours wait at the river banks outside we took the Cruise Boat to Greenwich
It is a picturesque district in south-east of London, on the south bank of the River Thames in the London Borough of Greenwich. It is best known for its maritime history and as giving its name to the Greenwich Meridian (0° longitude) and Greenwich Mean Time. It became the site of a Royal palace, the Palace of Placentia from the 15th century, and was the birthplace of many in the House of Tudor, including Henry VIII and Elizabeth The maritime connections of Greenwich were celebrated in the 20th century, with the sitting of the Cutty Sark and Gypsy Moth IV next to the river front, and the National Maritime Museum in the former buildings of the Royal Hospital School in 1934.
Greenwich formed part of Kent until 1889 when the County of London was created. We took a leisurely stroll around the pretty town and were amazed to find a Mogul restaurant, Flavours of India and a shop called Shiva. We had dinner at a French café at the town centre after which we took the last boat back to the London Tower from where we took a bus to London. Our Hop on Hop off bus was no longer available as they operate till 6 pm only.
After our regular breakfast of Chilled Milk and Muesli; Poached eggs on toast with bacon, baked beans and tomatoes all washed down with fresh juice or breakfast tea we took the bus to Paddington to take the train to Oxfordshire through Slough, Reading and Didcot Parkway. Half way through the bus ride I had to go back to the room and return with my passport after realizing that I had left it behind as one cannot use the British Rail as a foreigner without it. As a matter of fact it was stupid of me not to have it on person all the time. Oxfordshire was far bigger than I had imagined and had a lot more than the university and colleges.
I loved the place with its honey colored lime stone buildings and inspite of it being too late now, could not help dreaming of going to college at such a beautiful location. We did the Hop on Hop off tour to ensure that we didn’t miss anything and then visited Alice’s shop (Alice in Wonderland), Christ church, the Sheldonian theatre and went punting from the Magdalene Bridge. It was the best part of the Oxfordshire visit and I felt one with nature. Each time I visited a new place I thought it was prettier that the last and thereby my love affair with the countryside grew stronger. It was picture perfect as we crossed the Hilda’s college and other spots on the way downstream.
On Wednesday morning we took the bus to Marylebone station. With the British Rail passes we had purchased from India entitling us to eight day paid rides and a ninth free we took the train to Warwick. It was just a ten minute walk from the station. It is one of the cutest towns I have seen, felt like a toy town to me. Maybe with all the children running around it felt so. A number of school groups had brought their junior school children to the castle, summer being a great time for out door activity. The excitement of naughty below 10 year olds was a treat by itself Warwick castle is a walk back in history that dates back to over 1000 years and is quite simply the greatest medieval castle in Britain. Once inside we first had tea and buttered scones before proceeding to look around. On our way out we picked up souvenirs from the gift shops which have an amazing and interesting variety of memoirs.
Walking to and back from the station we crossed about four Indian restaurants and I was really surprised at how Indian Cuisine was popular even in a small town. We took the train to Statford upon Avon with our lunch packs of Tuna sandwitches from Subway to save time. It was barely a twenty minute train ride and the huge paper cup of tea I had picked up lasted me through it. The smallest cup of tea or coffee available anywhere in the country is twice as big as the ones in India. Given the weather it is however warming. Statford upon Avon is another picturesque town and even one is not interested in Shakespeare for which the town in popular it is certainly worth a visit.
The Shakespeare houses here comprise of five historic buildings directly associated with William Shakespeare and his family. His birthplace in Henley Street; Nash his grand daughters husband’s house overlooking his retirement house’s site ; Hall’s croft the house in which the dramatist’s son-in-law and eldest daughter are believed to have lived and his wife Anne Hathaway’s cottage in the village of Shottery and the girlhood home of his mother Mary Arden before she married John Shakespeare his father.
Visiting these houses helps satisfy ones curiosity about Shakespeare and his family background. His native town was of significance through his life. Statford was where he was born, attended school & church, met his wife and saw his children grow up and first watched plays, invested in property, retired and died. His birth house now run by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust is a museum with varied artifacts of his period, life and times and maintained impeccably.
We picked up some nice soveniours from the gift shop in his birth place and getting a few pound coins crushed to a souvenir in the coin crusher. We had refreshments at the Café – Tea and fresh cakes, in front of his birthplace and walked around the town visiting the other houses. Each with the fresh blooming flowers was prettier than the previous. At about 5.45pm we took the train back to Marylebone station on the Chiltern railways.
The next day that was a Thursday we took the train to Cambridge from Kings Cross. Most trains left from Kings cross and therefore the decision to stay there. Once again on the ride of the Sight seeing busses we took a look around the town and visited the Fitzgerald art museum with its amazing collection of paintings and artifacts from years. Over Lunch at the Café on the Cambridge River Tours punt starting point by the river we had time to view the fun filled group activities of the students and visitors with a backdrop of the river. I liked Oxfordshire better and completing our Cambridge tour we were back in Kings cross by 5.30 Pm.
Once again leaving mother to rest in the room, this time more readily as she was exhausted from trying to keep up with our energy levels we headed to Leicester Square. We walked from Oxford Street as we had got off the bus there. The walk around central London in the evenings was enchanting. We tried getting Theatre tickets but none were available that is sold. Therefore we just walked down to spend the evening at Trafalgar Square after Irish coffee with Whisky at a Café on Leicester square. Dinner that night was at the MacDonald’s adjacent to our accommodation. It was convenient and the only place opened that late.
On our return to London after a week which we spent visiting Scotland we stayed at a Hotel in Paddington. Reaching by 2 Pm we spend the rest of the day visiting relatives. Inspite of having a number of friends and relatives in London the reason we chose to stay at hotels is that it gives you a freedom to do as you please and is so very crucial for a good holiday. The next day we took a train to slough and changed one to Windsor Castle. Visiting the Castle took more than half the day. We also got a chance to view the Change of Guards.
It is the queen’s official residence and favorite weekend home. The State apartments are lavishly furnished with treasures from the Royal Collection and the opulence and luxury of the castle was breathtaking. I particularly liked Queen Mary’s Dolls’ house. After lunch at a French café in the shopping area close by we walked down to Eaton College which is just a brisk 15 minute truly picturesque walk. The town of Eaton is just on the other side of the Thames from the Windsor Castle.
We just about made it by 4.30 when entry for visitors at the college closes. The town was very well dressed and pretty. The bridge we crossed over the Thames to the other side to Eaton town was a breathtaking sight with ducks and swans in huge numbers swimming below. We also had a light rain shower through the sun on our walk making the view spectacular. The Eaton College is the institution of the Royals and has a long list of rich and famous Alumni. After a tour of the college we picked up memoirs from the gift shop nearby which also had a good collection of books with a list of great tips on how to make perfect gentlemen and ladies.
The evening we spent catching up with friends at Covent Garden in central London after meeting up with them in Trafalgar square and walking there. We sat at an open air café near the apple market with fire near the tables and it was a lovely night with the late evening sun, a chilly wind blowing, and warmth of the fire. We had the traditional huge servings of Fish & Chips with good measures of wine and cheer. In spite of it all I was sad. I was leaving the next day while others stayed another couple of days. We just about made it on one of the last trains to Kings Cross where we had to change to another for Paddington.
My last day in London was the longest. After a sumptuous breakfast of Banana Nutella Pancake at a Café near the Paddington Station we took the train to Bath utilizing out last and ninth British Rail pass. One can use the pass only for group travel so we completed it before I left the next day. For the last time in my fifteen day summer romance I sat on the top deck of the Hop on Hop of Bus to view the city of the Roman baths- Bath. It is a city in Somerset in the south west of England. The city was founded, among surrounding hills, in the valley of the River Avon around naturally-occurring hot springs where the Romans built baths and a temple, giving it the name Aquae Sulis.
Much later, it became popular as a spa resort during the Georgian era, which led to a major expansion that left a heritage of exemplary Georgian architecture crafted from Bath Stone. The city became a world heritage site in 1987, and has a variety of theatres, museums, and other cultural and sporting venues, which have helped to make it a major centre for tourism; the city has two universities and several schools and colleges.
On return to Paddington station picking up Almond and Jam Croissants with big portions of crushed mulberry ice cream we went back to the hotel to get ready for my last evening in London. It was a Friday evening and having taken a Taxi to Covent Garden we realized that though not as much as a Saturday it was good day to be out. After beer and huge mixed platters shared among seven of us - other friends having joined us at a pub we walked on to Leicester square.
We took a table outside the same Café as on our first evening - Bella Italia. Sitting there I looked out at the basket of flowers hanging above -. My first attraction to England. I know the memory of those blooming flowers will always remain and I can evoke them just by closing my eyes. I slowly picked on the Lasagna I had ordered with a very heavy heart. The red wine seemed to help gulping it down and also to make my heart a bit lighter as we walked on from there to an ice cream parlor. We reached our hotel at 2 at night and after a few winks of sleep I took the Heathrow express from Paddington at 7.10Am.

A Ship Under The London Bridge

Shakespeare’s Birth Place

Nash’s House in Statford upon Avon

Flowers in Full Bloom

London By Night - From the Top Deck of a Bus

Trafalgar Square - London At Night

Downing Street

Buckingham Palace Gate